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Tuesday, June 28: After a great breakfast, we said goodbye to Ales and Wanda,but not before inviting them to come visit us in Columbia. We're heading to Bar Harbor, ME, but make a brief detour to St. Andrews in New Brunswick, just north of the US border. The weather is great: sunny, mild, very little wind. St. Andrews is bigger than Blacks Harbour and Saint George combined, with several shops and many restaurants. But it's mid-morning, so we'll move on. The border crossing is uneventful. We're asked what we purchased, do we have any fruit or other produce (we give up an orange, a yellow pepper and an onion), do we have any alcoholic beverages (we have one bottle of wine), and how long have we been gone and where are we heading. The customs officer is quite friendly and we're happily back in the USA in about 10 minutes. No more Canadian money, no more Canadian taxes, no more kilometers, and no more litres. We also gain back the hour we lost a month ago when we cross from the Atlantic Time Zone (New Brunswick) to the Eastern Time Zone (Maine). Rather than drive straight to Bar Harbor, we go a little out of our way and visit the University of Maine in Orono (mostly so Rick can add to his growing collection of university t-shirts). The U of ME has approximately 12,000 students,located about 8 miles from Bangor. It's about one square mile in area. Looked like a nice enough place, but isolated. We found the bookstore and Rick got his t-shirt.
Wednesday, June 29: Too good to be true that we would have two nice warm
sunny days in a row. When Rick peeks out the window and sees the street outside
our Inn is fogged in, he goes back to bed. We do get up in time to have
breakfast at the Morning Glory Cafe, and then jump in the car and ride around
Mt. Desert Island (on which Bar Harbor is the largest town). We drive through
Northeast Harbor and Southwest Harbor among other little towns,but get back
to Bar Harbor for a (not too) late lunch. Unbeknownst to him, Rick's hat falls
on the floor and he fails to notice. When we get up to leave, Rory see a hat
on the floor, doesn't look at it too closely, and turns it in as "lost". We
spend the rest of the afternoon wandering around the town.
Several hours later, Rick realizes he's left his hat behind. Luckily, the
restaurant has it, and Rick's 25 cent hat (a whole 'nother story) is once again
back in his possession. After perusing the menus of several restaurants, we
settle on MamaDiMatteo's. This
turns out to be an inspired choice as we will have one of the top 5 dinners of
the entire trip. The food and service is top notch and we recommend it highly
if you're ever visiting Bar Harbor.
Thursday, June 30: Today is forecast to be the best day of our Bar
Harbor visit to see the sunrise atop Cadillac Mountain in Acadia National Park.
We set the alarm for 4am, so why were we surprised when it went off at 4am?
Sunrise this morning is scheduled for 4:51am. It's about a 20 minute drive to
the top of the mountain. There's some fog, but the higher we get, the less
foggy it is. The parking lot at the summit has only about 15 cars; more will
arrive until there are probably around 150 people, shivering slightly in the
wind. At 1500 feet in elevation, Cadillac Mountain is the highest point on the
Atlantic coast. We (along with the other 148) will be the first people to see the
sun rise today. The fog has settled over the coast below us and there's a
layer of clouds above. The sun rises slowly "below" us. It's not spectacular,
but it's certainly worth getting up early for. By 5:15, we've seen what we
came for and shivered enough. Back to our nice warm bed to finish what an hour
or so been a great night's sleep.
Breakfast this morning again at the Morning Glory Cafe: toasted bagel with
cream cheese and coffee--Rick has been looking forward to this since yesterday's
breakfast. Afterward, we drive back to Acadia National Park, revisit Cadillac
Mountain now that it's daytime and the ground fog is gone, and take the Loop
Road drive (27 miles around the park). There are numerous places to stop along
the Loop to enjoy the views.
We have an early dinner tonight, having eaten breakfast late and skipped
lunch. On our walk back to our room, we stop to meet several dogs and their
owners. We are attracted by a very well-groomed briard. We know the breed
because one of our neighbors has had two. The owners of "Norman the Briard"
are a family of four who are taking a year off to tour the US. Chris and Karen
and their young children (ages 6 and 9) will be traveling the US for the next
year towing their 38' fifth-wheel. What makes this even more interesting is
that Norman is famous. He is the spokes-dog for the National Dog Food Company,
has
his own website
and facebook page. Karen has trained him to ride a scooter
(among other tricks) and he has appeared on numerous TV shows including David
Letterman (stupid pet tricks), CNN, and many local news programs. As they explore
the US, National Pet Food contacts them to appear on TV in whatever locality
they happen to be. Today marks the 49th day of our trip and the end of the
7th week.
Friday, July 1: Today is a day to just kick back and relax. We've seen the things we came to see and done the things we came to do. It's one of the nicest days of our trip so far and Rick wears shorts for just the fifth time in 50 days. After breakfast we take a walk down to the harbor asnd then to a church that is having a "yard sale" (one of Rory's favorite things). After this one she sees a sign for another one several blocks away. When Rick was here in 1992 he stayed at a B&B. In planning this trip he was unable to recall its name as he would have liked to stay there again. On our way back into town the other day we passed "The White Columns B&B" and recognized it immediately. He wondered whether it was still owned by the same woman. An inquiry at the Information Center confirmed that it was. So while Rory went off in search of her yard sale, Rick walked to the B&B in search of Anne Bahr. He was greeted by her husband (she was not married in 1992) Bob who told him that Anne was at their other property "Cleftstone Manor". White Columns is even nicer than he remembered it and we certainly would have stayed there had Rick been able to recall the name. So we got in the car and drove there. Sure enough, we found Anne, and, although she didn't remember Rick (wouldn't have expected her to after 19 years), he was able to remind her that he visited the week of her high school reunion in Portland. We spent a half hour catching up. She and Bob married in 1995 and bought Cleftstone several years later. We hope they may come visit us if they're ever in SC. Back at our Inn, we relax on the front porch and strike up a conversation with
Kevin and Shirley from Rochester, NH. They are natives of Maine and have been
coming to The Central House for 19 years. Dinner tonight is back at Mama
DiMatteo's and if anything, it's even better than Wednesday. We'll be leaving
Bar Harbor in the morning and heading for Boothbay Harbor for the next week.
Saturday, July 2: Another beautiful day. Rick is up early and goes
We find the Yesmentes' home and
our apartment
without any problem. Eleanor
Sunday, July 3:
Monday, July 4: Monday is sunny & warm until late afternoon. The plan for today was to go out on Pete's boat and watch the fireworks. It's a perfect day (until about 4 o'clock when the temperature drops and the fog rolls in. Rick has taken a walk along the wooded road that winds around Little River. First he stops to photograph an old church that has been restored to a private home and is painted white with purple trim. Later he comes across the Millenium Gallery of the Unruly Elf , whimsical creations in wood, stone, and other natural materials. The lodge and the house next door look like something out of an enchanted forest. Next we drive out to Ocean Point and take the loop drive. Sunsets are supposed to be spectacular from here, but it's too early and almost totally fogged in. Rick remembers we'd passed a restaurant advertising twin lobster dinners for $19.95, so that will be dinner tonight. The fog has not only cancelled our boat ride, but also the fireworks. The latter have been rescheduled for tomorrow night.
Tuesday, July 5:
We're going One of many lighthouses Open bridge for ice cream in Boothbay Harbor. The coast of Maine is dotted with many homes large and small. Ultimately we leave the Atlantic head for the bridge that divides Boothbay Harbor from Southport Harbor. We have to wait until 3:30 because the bridge is opened only on the half hour and the E-Y needs almost 11 feet of clearance to go under it. While we're waiting, we somehow manage to get the mooring buoy stuck under our hull. It takes a while to extricate ourselves with the help of a tow from a passing boat. We've missed the bridge opening and wait for the next one. We decide to bypass the ice cream and head back to Little River. As we entered Little River Cove, Pete noticed a stack of white birch logs on the front lawn of one of his friends. Rory had been wanting some for our fireplaces at home, but we had no way to get any. Pete said he'd call his friend and see if we could take some. We're going out on the boat again later to see the fireworks that were cancelled last night by the fog. We ate at Lobsterman's Wharf again--they had a nice hamburger special and we weren't all that hungry. Besides, it's only 5 minutes from the apartment. While we were eating a bunch of folks came in off a boat. There were 9 or 10 of them and they sat at two tables (6 at one and 4 at the other). They all got their drinks and then all 6 at the one table went to the restroom. While they were gone, the old guy who acts as the greeter, thinking they had left, cleared their table and sat someone else there. The 4 people at the other table realized what had happened and told the people that the table was taken. We were quite amused by this, when at another table, where the server had apparently neglected to leave silverware, a young boy, who was having spaghetti with marinara sauce, told his father that he really didn't need a fork. He got one before he could attack his pasta with his fingers! Cheap entertainment, for sure. A little before 7pm, we drove to the dock to meet Pete and two other couples
who were coming along for the fireworks display. Eleanor stayed home--she
likes to turn in early. The water was so still--like glass--and smooth. Rick
didn't bother to take another dramamine pill. We enjoyed meeting Pete's
friends and quickly felt we had known them for a long time. When we reached
Boothbay Harbor, Pete docked the boat and we went in search of the ice cream
we didn't have this afternoon. Then we maneuvered the boat out into the
harbor, tied up to a mooring buoy, and waited for the fireworks show to begin.
Around 9pm, a couple of competing displays went off. At 9:15 the show started--a
really good show that lasted about 20 minutes. Watching fireworks from aboard
a boat was new for us and great fun. We had an unobstructed view of the barge
from which the fireworks were shot off, not to mention the display itself. Pete
navigated safely back to the dock at Little River Cove.
Wednesday, July 6: Today we'll spend most of the day shopping in
Freeport. When he goes out to see how warm it is, Rick finds a note on the
picnic table from Eleanor to let us know that Pete has contacted his friend and
that we are welcome to as many of the birch logs as we'd like. Pete wants
to know how long to cut them and will bring them back while we're in Freeport.
Talk about hospitality!! Pete and Eleanor have gone out of their way to make
After the "grease feast" at lunch, neither of us is really hungry. We think pizza might be good. On the way we decide to drive to Ocean Point and spec out where we might park to watch the sunset later this evening. Right at the perfect spot, who do we see parked there? Of course, it's Pete & Eleanor. We are going to have to stop meeting this way. We ask where a good pizza place might be, and they recommend House of Pizza in the Meadow Mall, not far from the apartment on the road into Boothbay Harbor. The restaurant is owned by a Greek family. When our food comes, Rick says "epharisto" (which means "thank you" in Greek) to Yanoula who appears to be the owner. Her face lights up, she's so pleased that we know "a little" Greek. She wants to know if we've ever been there, which of course, we have. She's from a little town on the mainland part of Greece just across the new (Rio) bridge from the Peloponnese. We crossed that bridge in 2007 and actually drove through her home town. This makes her even happier and Rick shows her a photo of the bridge from our website. We top it all off with "avrio", which means "good-bye" in Greek. We had planned to go back to Ocean Point for the sunset, but when we leave
the pizza place, it's gotten quite dark. A storm is rolling in. We drive out
to Ocean Point anyway on the chance that the skies are cleared there. No luck;
and when it starts raining, we drive back to the apartment for the night.
Thursday, July 7: Our original plan was to go to Kennebunkport.
Instead we decided to do the laundry which has piled up since PEI. We had
Friday, July 8: Well, finally a bad day. We decided to go to Kennebunkport. What a mistake!! The town is supposed to be a tourist attraction. Not sure what kind of tourists they're trying to attract. There is almost no place to park. The few lots charge anywhere from $3-5 per hour. The streets are clogged with cars looking for places to park. When we finally did find a spot with a 1 hour limit (not even enough time to have lunch), we went to the Tourist Information Office to complain. They are well aware of the situation, so much so that they had a pre-printed questionaire to fill out about the parking situation. Rick did a nice job "trashing" the place as a tourist attraction. Every other town we've visited has provided for ample parking. Our only recourse was to leave as quickly as possible without spending a single cent there. In case we haven't been clear enough: DO NOT BOTHER TO GO TO KENNEBUNKPORT. (You won't have a "Bush sighting" either.) We had dinner tonight at the same place we ate on Saturday, and returned to
our apartment to get organized for our drive to New Hampshire tomorrow. We
have thouroughly enjoyed our time in Maine (despite the above) and our hosts,
Pete and Eleanor could not have been nicer.
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