Friday, April 28th: Up early--we have a 9:25 flight to Kangaroo Island and need to call a cab to get us to the airport at least an hour early. No problem, and we find ourselves at Adelaide Airport with plenty of time to spare. Going thru security, we are told that our nail clippers can't be in our carry on, so we quickly rearrange our stuff so that Rory can check a bag and we can put our clippers in it. Funny--we had no trouble with these in the US. Go figure!

The flight to KI on Regional Express (REX) takes 25 minutes through mostly gray clouds. We are concerned that it will rain on us all day, but just after arrival, the sun comes out and it turns out to be a delightful day. We are met by Andy of Exceptional Kangaroo Island (formerly "Adventure Charters of Kangaroo Island" --Craig had recently changed the name). There are two other couples: Charlie (really, that's her name) and her husband Dave from northern California and Pilar and her husband Andy from Los Angeles and Mexico. We're off in a comfortable 4-wheel drive vehicle to encounter as much natural wildlife as we can. We aren't out 15 minutes when we stop to look for koalas and find three of them high up in the trees. While we're standing in the dirt road with our heads bent way back, another vehicle comes along. The driver is Craig Wickham who agrees that we will get together later this evening. We stop several times along the way for bird sightings, and for Andy to point things out and provide explanations for what we're seeing. For a mid-morning break, we stop along the road for tea/coffee/hot chocolate and chocolate cake. All the necessities are stowed in the boot (trunk) of the vehicle, along with everything we'll need for lunch (see below). Tummies full, we're off on a bush walk. We're cautioned to avoid the areas where ants gather, but most of us wind up spending a bit of time brushing ants off of our shoes and pants. At least they don't bite.... First sighting is a pair of wallabys, and shortly, a pair of Kanagaroo Island kangaroos. They don't seem to mind that we've invaded their habitat as long as we don't get too close. Andy is glad to see them lie down, because this means they are comfortable and not threatened. During the 90 minute walk we'll encounter so many wallabys that we almost become jaded (almost!). One of the highlights of our trek for Rory is seeing the glossy black cockatoo in the wild. There are only 300 of them on the island and before we are done, we'll see four of them (two pair, male and female). Andy is pleased because #1-this is a big thrill for Rory; and #2-he says he only sees them about 5% of the time. He knew where to find them because we could hear them eating: picking the seeds from the cones that hang from the Casurina trees, which is the only thing they'll eat..

Back in the vehicle, we take a spin by Stokes Beach. When Andy comments that most people don't know about the beach because it's accessible via a hidden path through the rocks, Rick realizes that he was here before (in 1991). The experience had completely slipped his memory. Unfortunately the tide is in and the beach isn't accessible. We see many kangaroos sunning themselves, sleeping under the trees, or hopping across the fields. We're a little behind schedule for lunch, not that anyone minds, but because dinner will be served at 7pm, we need to eat pretty soon. We proceed to a sheltered area on the other side of a meadow full of sheep. The approach of a vehicle normally means feeding time, so the sheep begin following us. Pretty soon they realize the joke's on them and return to their grazing. We stop in a wooded area where a canvas canopy has been set up over a picnic table and a gas grill. Lunch will be Kangaroo Island whiting (mild, white fish), grilled potatoes, salad, rolls and fine wines. Beer is also available and ginger beer for Andy. Andy starts the barbie and produces table linen, dishes, utencils, and wine glasses from the baskets configured especially for this type of al fresco dining experience. The seven of us eat until we're stuffed; wait out a brief rain shower (under the protective canopy), visit the "loo with a view", pack up and head for Seal Bay.

We arrive at 4:15 and the beach closes at 5:00. This was the highlight for Rick on his last visit and he is not disappointed. (Well, he is a little because we don't have the run of the beach like he did before and we can't get as close to the Australian Sea Lions as he'd like.) But, Seal Bay is an awesome place: a beach cove protected by rocky cliffs on either end and dune hills, where the sea lions retreat to sleep, protected from the cold winds. There are hundreds of them on the beach. Most of them are sleeping peacefully in the late afternoon sun. There are bulls, cows and pups ranging in age from just a few weeks to a year or so old. We are entertained by one young pup cavorting in the ocean surf. Occasionally, a big one will sit up, raise its nose to the sun, and strike a pose. Right in front of where we're standing, a young pup is nursing at his mother's side. It's fairly calm today, only light winds, and the sun is beginning to set. Our 45 minutes goes by in a flash, and we walk up the boardwalk path (new since Rick was here last) to the Seal Bay center, stopping several places to see the seals asleep in the dunes. Seal Bay is a place we could return to every day and never get tired of it. It's Rick's favorite single place in the world!!

What do you do to top that? Stranraer Homestead comes pretty close. This is a real Australian homestead on 3000 acres. Lyn and Graham Wheaton are the owners. They have 6000 sheep that they raise for meat, assorted chickens, a horse, two dogs (both named "Tess") and a cat named "Cedrick". The house was built in 1920 by Graham's grandfather and they operate it as a B&B--and what a place it is!! It has been tastefully decorated by Lyn who also prepares the gourmet dinners and breakfasts we'll enjoy. Graham takes care of the farm and the gardens. He's also a pretty fair cricket player from what we are told, and there's actually a cricket ground on the property. Our room is fantastic: big queen bed, fireplace, electric bed pad for Rory, and one of the nicest bathrooms we've ever seen. It turns out we have the only ensuite room--maybe Craig's way of saying thanks, maybe just the luck of the draw. The Wheaton's accept only three couples at a time, but for tonight there'll only be two. Charlie and Dave are staying somewhere else. Andy and Pilar will be here with us both nights. There is a front sitting room with a fireplace; guest rooms on either side of a long hallway from the front door. At the back is the dining room, kitchen and pantries (from left to right). Lyn and Graham live on the left side of the house. We are greeted like family. Lyn tells Rick that Craig, Janet, and the two kids (son Blair--9, and daughter Skye --6) will be coming by before dinner so we'll eat at 8:00 instead of 7:00. This is doubly good news, since none of us are really hungry yet. The Wickhams arrive with a nice bottle of Kangaroo Island red wine for all to share, Lyn provides some cheese and crackers, and Rick and Craig catch up on the 15 years since they'd first met. After the four Wickhams depart, we sit down to our first gourmet dinner. We had choices for starters and mains, along with homemade bread, a glass of wine of our choice, coffee and desert. All of the food was prepared in the kitchen by Lyn and for the second time today, we eat until we are stuffed. We go to sleep happy and satisfied. Rory is asleep when she hits the pillow.

Saturday, April 29th: Rick is up early so he can wander around the property. The weather is cloudy and cool and looks like it might remain that way all day--as long as it doesn't rain! Rick walked around the veranda taking pictures and when he reached the back of the house, he was greeted by one of the Tesses. She was very happy for any company at all and quickly bonded with Rick. The two of them wandered the property and Tess, in her excitement, jumped up on Rick and managed to wipe her muddy paws on his jeans. He found Lyn in the kitchen and got a hot damp rag and between them, they managed to clean off most of the mud. Lyn offered to launder the pants, lending Rick a pair of Graham's jeans; but Rick felt they weren't that dirty. Next encounter in his roamings: Cedrick the cat, who was more than happy to follow Rick around for a while. Breakfast at 8:00: homemade pancakes and croissants, fruit, eggs; Lyn puts out enough to feed an army. Around 9:15, our guide for the day, Tim, drives up in another 4-wheel drive vehicle. Before we can leave, Lyn appears with a pair of Graham's jeans, insisting that Rick leave his so she can wash them. Rather than protest, Rick agrees and bears a bit of kidding because Graham's jeans are a bit short on him. We'll be picking up two more guests at the airport (Bill and Sue from Four Corners, New Mexico) and then driving west across the island to see the fur seals, Admiral's Arch at Cape du Couedic, and Remarkable Rocks. Along the way we stop for mid-morning tea, this time with carrot and walnut cake, and little chocolate/coconut/orange squares that are to die for. We have to drive for about two hours and along the way we cross the "mighty" Rocky River--really not much more than a creek meandering erratically through gum eucalyptus trees. We spot a couple of koalas way up in the trees and arrive at the Flinders Chase National Park Centre. It's started to rain, so we wrap ourselves in the oilskin jackets that Lyn was thoughtful enough to have Tim bring along. We stay dry and impervious to the cold. Too bad we don't have much use for them in Florida--they're pretty cool looking: made us look a bit like real Aussie sheep herders! Since Rick was last in Australia, the area for viewing the fur seals has been made accessible by boardwalk paths--keeping humans from getting too close. In the past, the seals were viewed from above the rocks and they were not happy to be disturbed. By putting in the paths, the seals have become more comfortable; increasing their numbers by 15% per year. The path also leads underneath Admiral's Arch, which has been formed by the pounding surf and winds. You used to be able to walk out onto the ledge under the arch, but not anymore. The seals have taken it over as well. It's still fascinating to watch these animals diving off the rocks into the surf or just sleeping in a sheltered spot. The conservation efforts have made a big difference in the seal population, so the limited accessiblity is probably a small price to pay. One of the nice things about the sites we've visited the past two days: very few other people, and, NO tour buses.