Monday, May 1st: Last night Jason mentioned that a bloke across from our apartment was a "wireless wizard" and might be able to help get our laptop healthy. Rob agreed to meet us in the cafe at 8:30 this morning. He was very confident that he could fix our problem, and, with five minutes to go before the cab arrived to take us to the airport, HE DID!! He said he worked best under pressure. All we knew was that we could access the net wirelessly and we did so for the first time in Australia from the Adelaide airport. Unfortunately we didn't have the time to update our website and we would find the same old problems awaiting us in Fremantle. At least we know the issue isn't with our laptop--it appears to be in the way the internet is accessed from an unsecured network. We'll keep working on it. The Qantas flight to Perth was delayed, but we lucked out when no one took the aisle seat next to us. We had room to spread out and enjoyed the flight including the movie "The March of the Penguins" which we hadn't seen. No incidents with luggage and we enjoyed our cab ride to Fremantle because our driver was very chatty and gave us a mini-orientation to the Perth/Fremantle area.

Our apartment is everything it was advertised to be and we are quite pleased with it. We've got a great view of the city of Fremantle and the Indian Ocean from our 4th floor balcony. We'll be very happy here this week (and the week we return from our trip up the west coast). We called Vicki to let her know we made it successfully and shortly thereafter, Richard knocked on the door to give us a rundown on how things worked. We look forward to spending some time with them. Once we got organized we were off to explore the town. There's a free city bus that will suit our transportation needs in Fremantle and the center of town is only a 10 minute walk from our apartment. Unlike any of the Aussie cities we've been in so far, Fremantle is laid out in no particular scheme. It will take a couple of days for us to learn our way around. For dinner, we ate at Benny's cafe primarily because they had a barramundi (fish) special that appealed to Rick. Rory settled for a couple of starters as her dinner. We walked back to the apartment, very satisfied with the events of the day.

Tuesday, May 2nd: Another gorgeous, sunny day in Fremantle. We decide to do a full circuit on the free CAT (Central Area Transit) Bus, but first we stop at the Tourist Office to find out where we can connect to the internet. There are very few internet cafes here, unlike the other cities we've been in. We learn that the YHA Hostel has what we're looking for. We stop in and are told they have disabled their wireless network. Looks like we'll have to wait a while longer to get our website updated. After a bit of shopping (Rick finds a bargain on a t-shirt designed by an aboriginal artist) and a visit to the Indigenart Gallery (for aboriginal art), we get back on the CAT Bus, exiting at the Perth Royal Yacht Club for a walk along the waterfront. We stopped in to check out Little Creatures Brewery and noted it will be a great place for lunch and a brewski. Farther along, Rory finds that Cicerello's restaurant has a 37-meter, salt-water aquarium with creatures from Australian waters. We saw anemones, spiny urchins, clown fish, scorpion fish, blue star fish, several types of small sharks, to name a few. Some of Rick's photos look like they could have been taken at the Great Barrier Reef. Back on our walk, we wandered into the Kidogo Arthouse (formerly part of the fortifications for the city) and then on to the Round House. This served as the first prison in Fremantle and there is ample evidence of how prisoners were treated here. Every day at 1pm, the Round House cannon is fired. Originally this was a signal by which the city set its clocks. Since it's after 1pm, we'll have to come back another day to witness this event. We've decided to eat dinner in the apartment tonight, so we stop at the local Coles Market for steaks, salad fixings, and wine.

Wednesday, May 3rd: Day three in Freo is pretty much like the first two weatherwise and we're not complaining! Rick has been letting his hair grow since the beginning of February and this morning he lets it go natural for the first time since the 1980s. We hauled the laptop down to the YHA only to find that we can't connect to their LAN either. Since their wireless network has been disabled, we settle for accessing email using their terminal. Rather than tote the laptop all day, Rick goes back to the apartment and Rory stays on the bus to go antiquing. It's lunchtime, and remembering the brewery from yesterday, we opt for Little Creatures. We share a steakburger and salad of olives and feta; chardonay for Rory, Roger's Pale Ale for Rick. Time for a little touristy activity--a visit to the Fremantle Prison. We have a choice of tours and select the combo "Doing Time" and "Great Escape" tours. The former is a guided tour of the prison facilities including the cell blocks, kitchen, yard, and gallows. Colin, our guide, is quite entertaining, treating the kids as if they were convicts. We'll take the second tour in the next couple of days--it's primarily about successful and unsuccessful attempts to escape from the prison. We are also considering the "Torchlight" tour that requires prebooking and purports to be pretty spooky. We return to the apartment to relax before dinner. We're thinking "Italian" tonight; there is a large Italian population in Fremantle and almost as many Italian restaurants. While on the way to "Gino's", which we'd seen the first night, we pass "Caesar's". A sign in front advertises that all pasta dishes are A$10.95 and all other mains are A$15.95. Seems like a deal, so we give it a try: Rick has veal; Rory has canelloni; both are excellent and we expect to come back another night. Back at the apartment, we spend an hour or so reviewing all our brochures about things to do in Perth where we plan to go tomorrow. Before going to bed, Rick realizes that when we come back to Freo for the last week of our WA leg, we'll need the preceding Sunday (May 28th) at the apartment, or dealing with returning the car, hauling our packs, etc. will be a hassle. He'll call Vicki in the morning in hopes that they haven't previously booked it to someone else.

Thursday, May 4th: Cloudy this morning--what is this?? We've paid for sun..... The good news: we can have the apartment on the 28th and we'll get the chance to spend some time with Vicki and Richard when we get back as well. Our (actually Rick's) goal this morning is to be at the train station by 9am. Well, 9:30 ain't bad and we're off to Perth. At the last minute, we jump off at Subiaco station, three stops before the Perth Railway Station. Why? you might ask... We are on a mission to get "Footy" tickets. Footy is Australian Rules Football, a combination of American football, soccer and rugby, as near as we've been able to tell from watching it on TV. Subiaco is a delightful little suburban town and Rory decides she could live here. The Subiaco Oval is the "Home of Football" according to, well, the Subiaco Oval. The game on Saturday between the Freemantle Dockers and the West Coast (Perth) Eagles (a rivalry every bit as bitter as any in the US) is sold out. We're hoping for a couple of tickets for the game on June 3rd when we come back to Freo. There's no one at the box office, but a very helpful young woman provides us with a schedule of games and directs us back to the station and a news agency that, she believes, sells tickets. No such luck, but the bloke at the agency gives us the Ticketmaster number. Turns out the tickets don't go on sale by phone until May 22 at 9am. We'll have to call from wherever we are on the 22nd if we want to go. The best seats cost A$43.50 (about US$33).

Back on the train, we arrive in Perth and head direclty for the Tourist Office for a map of the free CAT Bus routes. We've decided to go to the Perth Mint, a state (not Federal) mint built in 1899. Commemorative gold and silver coins were minted here, with all revenue going to the state of Western Australia. The mint ceased operations in 1991, moving near the international airport. Originally it was built to handle the output of the Aussie goldrush of the late 1890s. We witness a gold-pouring demonstration in the original pouring room. Gold is heated to 1300 degrees celcius (above its liquidation point of 1063 degrees) and poured into a mold to form a gold bar weighing 400 ounces; then cooled in tap water. In a matter of a few minutes, the bar is cool enough to handle, although we aren't allowed to do so. A tour ensues and at the end, Rick is chosen to receive "free money" (a stamped copper cent) as a reward for being the male who led the laughter at the guide's jokes. Would you expect anything less? We spent some time examining the gold ingot and nugget displays and had the opportunity to lift a gold bar weighing 400 ounces (25 pounds).

Time for lunch and we decide to go to the Barrack Street Jetty from where the Swan River cruises depart. Our original intent is to take the cruise back to Freo, but a pushy sales person turns us off. We discuss our options over a fish and chips and greek salad lunch (which we share) and a couple of pints of Tetley Ale. It's getting cloudy, we've agreed that a cruise back to Freo can wait until another day, and we take the Blue CAT Bus back to the Perth Railway Station for the ride back to Freo. Dinner at the apartment is in order again, and we decide on an already prepared barbequed chicken, some salad and bread. We've got a full day planned for tomorrow.

Friday, May 5th: A couple of days ago, Rory noticed an article in the local paper about a wreath laying ceremony to mark the 64th anniversary of the Battle of the Coral Sea. Since the ceremony is at the Fremantle War Memorial, and this is the monument directly behind our apartment, we decide to check it out. Little do we know what we are in for. The ceremony is to begin at 10:30. At about 9:45 we walk up the path to the monument. Veterans and dignitaries are already starting to arrive. The first thing we notice is that The Australian American Association is honoring the memory of those who died at Coral Sea as they have for the past 60 years. The Battle of the Coral Sea is significant for two very important reasons: it is the first time the US and Aussie forces (specifically their Naval Forces) fought together against a common foe--the Japanese; and, had not the two allies defeated the enemy, Australia would probably have fallen. Since we ARE Americans, we decide we'll fit right in (despite the fact that we're dressed like a couple of backpackers)--and we are welcomed enthusiastically. Rick wanders among the participants, introducing himself to the many veterans and local officials, and taking photos that the subjects are proud to pose for. Several people come up to us to to say hello and satisfy their curiosity as to who we are and why we're there. Discovering we are Americans and that Rick served in the US Army during the Viet Nam War adds to their delight in our attendance. There is a full program, hosted by Max Kay, the president of the Australian American Association and a councilman in Perth. Speakers include Commodore Richard Shalders, RAN (Royal Australian Navy), Commander of the Australian Submarine Group; Senator Ian Campbell, representing Australian Prime Minister John Howard; Mark Prokop, US Consul for WA who delivers a message from President Bush; and the Mayor of Fremantle, Peter Tagliaferri.. Over 25 wreaths are laid at the base of the US torpedo memorial and Rick is busy capturing photos of the whole process. When the Star Spangled Banner is played, it's all Rick can do to keep a dry eye. When the ceremony ends after about an hour, Rick introduces himself and Rory to Mr. Kay, who becomes "Max" to us very quickly. He is a Scottish-born Australian, a former actor and theatrical producer, who will soon be running for Mayor of Perth.

We are invited to attend the "light lunch", hosted by the Mayor of Fremantle and sponsored by the Fremantle City Council. We are hesitant because of how we're dressed, but Max will hear none of it. When he learns that we'll be walking, he invites us to ride along with him and his wife, Norma. At the reception, Rick chats with the US Consul, who points out that the US Consul General, Robin McClellan, is also in attendance. Several ladies that we met at the ceremony are very persistent about making sure we meet everyone. Not surprisingly, Rick doesn't hesitate to introduce himself and Rory to the US Consul General, who is a delightful person. They trade business cards (ours has our picture of us), email addresses and website URLs, Robin's is a bit more impressive. Rick promises to send her all the photos he took at the ceremony. In return, Robin gives Rick her American & Australian Flags lapel pin that he will wear proudly. By the time we leave the luncheon, we have met just about everyone. We say goodbye to Max and Norma, thanking them again for the warm reception they gave us.

On our way to the Fremantle markets, we can't stop talking about the extraordinary morning we've had. It is a great example of the friendliness of the Australian people as well as a special experience we'll not soon forget.

The "light lunch" was just that--light. So we stop for real lunch before tackling the market. We share an oriental stir fry and some brochetta, along with an India Pale Ale from the attached brewery. The Fremantle markets are open on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. Not willing to let any potential bargains wait, we'll check them out today. The Freo markets are dwarfed by the Victoria Market in Melbourne, but there are enough native craft, jewelry, and souvenir shops to keep us busy. Rick found a new belt, but that was about it. We've still got our tickets for the "Great Escape" tour at Fremantle Prison from Wednesday, and just enough time to catch the one that starts at 3:45.

The Great Escape tour takes us throughout the prison to hear the stories of the various escape attempts. Our guide for this one is Emanuel, who bears a striking resemblance to Robert DeNiro. Since no one else shows up by 3:45, it's just us and Emanuel. In addition. to his regular narration, Emanuel takes us into the tunnel area (where the "Tunnel Tour" goes) and also into the old reservoir. The latter reminds us of the cicterns in Istanbul, but there is no water here. Other than seven political prisoners whose escape was planned and financed by the Irish, no criminals ever successfully escaped from Fremantle Prison. Although many got off the prison grounds they were all eventually aprehended. The closest anyone came, was 5 years of freedom. The prisoner eventually turned himself in!! Apparently he had cancer, and the only way he could "afford" treatment was in prison. Another prisoner, known as the "Postcard Bandit", escaped in 1986. (He was so named because he sent postcards back to the prison from all the places he visited while "on the lam". He returned some time later to take the Great Escape tour!! When the tour ended, he signed the guest book as the Postcard Bandit. One of the guards realized this and the Bandit was captured and returned to prison. We've had quite an unexpectedly exciting day. We opt for dinner in again and agree it was the most extraordinary day of our trip so far.

Saturday, May 6th: The day starts off on a huge high for Rick when he is finally able to update our website. Yesterday he found an internet cafe that will allow him to use his USB thumb drive. Having loaded it with the website files and photos last night, he's off into town at 8am. Rory opts to sleep in. Mission accomplished, Rick calls Rory at the apartment and she catches the CAT bus to meet him. We'll visit the E-Shed market, that turns out to be even smaller than the ones we visited yesterday. Over lunch we decide to go back to Subiaco and check out their markets.

The Aussie Football League (AFL) "Derby" game between the Fremantle Dockers and West Coast (Perth) Eagles is to be played today at the Subiaco Oval, but we erroneously believe it won't start until 5:40pm. We had tried to get tickets on Thursday, but the game was sold out. The two teams are bitter rivals (like the Red Sox and Yankees, only more so!!). We see many fans, dressed in their team colors (red, green and purple for Freo, and gold, blue and black for West Coast). Team scarves seem to be the most popular item, but there are plenty of jerseys (jumpers as they're called), hats, jackets, etc. in evidence, not to mention, huge team banners. We're wondering why they're here almost three hours early, but we go about browsing in the market. We're done in about 20 minutes and Rory suggests we walk up to the Oval and see if there might be anyone selling tickets on the street. It's only about a 250 meter walk and half way there we hear a loud roar. It turns out that the game started at 2:10pm and the first quarter is underway. At the lone open ticket window, Rick inquires about buying tickets to a game when we return to Freo in three weeks. He gets the same story as he got Thursday--they don't go on sale until a fortnight (two weeks) before the game; but, there are a couple of tickets for today available at another gate on the opposite side of the Oval. A short walk and A$60 later, we've got two for the biggest game of the year!! Later we'll learn that this game will set an attendance record here of 42,219.

OK, a bit about "Footy" as the game (and the ball itself) is called. The footy looks like an American football except it is rounder on the ends. From what we can pick up from watching it on TV the past few weeks, it's a combination of soccer, rugby and football. There are 22 players on each team, with 18 on the field at any time during the game. The players wear no padding. It is estimated that they can run up to 17km during a game, which is divided into 4 periods. We think each period is officially 20 minutes long, but the scoreboard clock keeps running even when play is out. So you're never quite sure how much time is left and neither are the players. The players' uniforms have their sponsors' advertising on them and the footy itself has advertising on it. The field is circular in shape. There are four goalposts. 6 points can be scored by kicking the footy between the two center posts, and one point (called a 'behind') by kicking it between either of the two leftmost or rightmost posts. One point (for the other team) can also be scored if the team on defense kicks the footy between any two of the posts or runs beyond the endline with it. This is a move to take the pressure off when the other team has mounted a sustained threat--like a safety in football, except the defense keeps the ball and goes on offense. The footy can be advanced by running with it, kicking it, or punching it from one player to another; but NOT by throwing it! If a player runs with the ball, he must bounce it at least once every 10-15 meters. If the footy is kicked from one player to and caught by another player (on either team) a free kick ensues. The idea is to get a free kick as close to the goal posts as possible. There are other unique things about this game, like how the ball is thrown in from out of bounds (by the umpire, facing away from the field, and throwing the ball over his head and as far up in the air and back toward the field as possible) and who gets the ball after a tackle, which we have yet to figure out!!

Back to the game: we find our seats in the corner, just about on the goal line in the third row. It's not the best seat, because you don't get the perspective of the whole game, but there is a large video of the game projected on the scoreboard so we can see what's going on at the other end. Both teams use the Subiaco Oval as their home field, but today, it's a home game for the Dockers. We're sitting next to two blokes who patiently answer all of our questions. The fellow behind us is an avid fan and loudly shouts out encouragement to the players, all of whom he knows by name. Before long we're yelling for Black, Jimmy, Hasleby, and "Meat Head" (Medhurst). The crowd frequently takes up the chant: FREEE-O, FREEE-O, FREEE-O. When Freo scores 6, the place goes berserk. There are high fives all around and the game goes on. The excitement is incredible and we are instantly into it. All of this is enhanced by the fact that Freo is a big underdog--West Coast is undefeated. At half time, the score is 50-48 in favor of the Dockers, with neither team able to take more than a 9 point lead. Freo goes up by 11 in the third period but the Eagles come back and take the lead in the 4th. Freo takes it back and it looks like an upset, but West Coast gets a late 6 to take the lead at 83-82. Paul Hasleby scores 6 putting the Dockers up by five at 88-83. The clock shows just over 27 minutes gone in the period; typically, including stoppages, periods last about 30 minutes. All of a sudden the roar is even more deafening. Rick has no idea what has happened and asks his new best friend sitting next to him. The horn has sounded ending the game. THE DOCKERS HAVE WON!!! Haselby's goal has come with only 43 seconds left!!!!! Rick's other new best friend (the one sitting behind us) jumps on the "dugout" in front of us and hugs everyone he can find! The amazing thing is very few people leave. Instead they break out in what must be the team song. After a while we leave the Oval, laughing all the way back to the train station. WE ARE HOOKED ON FOOTY!!